London pub guide: the Royal Oak, London SE1

The Royal Oak is one of the few pubs lucky enough to have escaped the architectural vandals of post-war London.

By Adrian Tierney-Jones in London 03 September 2010 • 6:16pm

London pub guide: the Royal Oak — Pilgrimage-worthy: the Royal Oak

Borough Market might be the capital’s foodie heaven on earth, but half a mile down the road the Royal Oak offers pub nirvana, a yin to the market’s yang.

Back in Victorian times, there would have been a solid, brick-built pub like this on every corner. Now the Royal Oak stands pretty much alone: one of the few pubs lucky enough to have escaped the architectural vandals of post-war London. Squint through its engraved glass windows and spot the chestnut-brown wooden fittings, with six hand pumps standing at the bar.

Enter and note how the wide windows allow light to pour into the open space, tempering the dark wood. The high ceiling is painted in a traditional lung-coloured hue, with decorative plasterwork circling the light fittings. A more compact bar is reached by passing through an old Jug & Bottle vestibule.

The Royal Oak’s clientele is equally satisfying. There’s a rehearsal hall for classical musicians around the corner and you’ll often spot one wetting his whistle over lunch.

There are no whistles, nor any other instruments, on show when I visit, but the man in the corner is the image of a contented pub soul. His plate scraped clean, he’s taking his time digesting the news in his broadsheet. His pint, two thirds gone, stands on the table before him – I bet he’ll have another.

The pub is owned by Sussex brewery Harvey’s, whose beers are much-garlanded with medals and awards. I order a glass of their mild: it’s svelte and refreshing, with sweetish milk chocolate notes on the palate.

I was right – the man in the corner is at the bar again. I follow his lead with a pint of Best Bitter, an earthy, robustly bitter delight that stuns the taste buds.

Something to eat? My new friend clearly enjoyed his steak and kidney pudding (£9.95) – not surprising given that the said Best Bitter adds its magic to the mix. Other choices include roast grouse (a snip in London at £13.95) and rabbit in mustard sauce (£10.95).

The street on which this gem stands was named after the inn from which Chaucer’s pilgrims set out. Today’s pilgrims could do a lot worse than beat a path to the Royal Oak.